BOHO vs. BOOM BOOM :: HOW CULTURAL TRENDS INFLUENCE FASHION TRENDS
A fashion trend report, but different
In this post, I want to share how I think about the intersections of cultural macrotrends and category-specific trends. The macrotrend methodology that I’ve introduced is quite structured and straightforward, but things start to get messier and more complicated when thinking about how these macrotrends influence different categories (i.e. food, beauty, travel). Every industry is different, and each has its own specific idiosyncrasies to consider. I’ll be using fashion as a sort of case study. Even if fashion doesn’t interest you, I hope this may provide some broader insight into the relationship between cultural and aesthetic shifts.1
There is a predisposition to think about fashion trends at a micro level, which makes it easy to dismiss them as trivial and frivolous.2 But fashion is closely interwoven with culture. When we look back on history, it’s evident how fashion trends are often puzzle pieces within broader aesthetic movements reflective of cultural shifts. Everything is clearer in hindsight, but it is often more difficult to decipher these trajectories as they are happening. Trend forecasting is essentially just the contemporary application of cultural theory for commercial purposes.
I meant to send this newsletter out a couple of weeks ago, before NYFW, but have been dealing with a family emergency. Anyway, we’re still in the midst of fashion month, and because of this year’s strange schedule, there’s a long gap before the major European fashion weeks kick off later this week. It will be interesting to see how the trends below come to life on the runway in the coming weeks and on the street throughout the year. Mostly though, this is just an exercise in drawing real-time connections between cultural macrotrends and the clothes we’re wearing. As you become more attuned to spotting these links, it’s natural to begin forecasting how these trajectories will evolve in the future as well.
The Maximalist Era (why ”quiet luxury” is over)
In Chaos Culture, I alluded to how the aesthetic pivot towards maximalism is linked to Gen Z overtaking Millennials at the forefront of culture. The 2010s were about accessible minimalism (Glossier pink, normcore, MCM furniture, sans-serif blanding). There was a clear shift as Gen Z took the spotlight in the 2020s, and with the rise of Tiktok: cluttercore, meme culture, and brands like Starface and Heavn pushing for playful, weird, eccentricity. Because news cycles and microtrends have been moving so quickly in recent years, there was a sudden reactionary response of "quiet luxury," but it was an aberration within the overall trend of maximalism.
I’d mentioned, in the footnotes of that piece, there are additional reasons why fashion’s recent foray into minimalism was never going to hold, specific to the category. I want to expand on this point a bit more here. In the
chat last week, posed the question:Why are so many publications declaring quiet luxury to be over when there are so many other designers, Fforme and Khaite and even Calvin Klein (?) sticking to the same formula of timeless quality and minimal tailoring?
Beyond the general move towards maximalism, it’s worth noting that "quiet luxury" will never completely disappear, because it’s simply the aesthetic of wealth. Ideas about “quiet luxury” have been around for centuries, since the French Revolution made clear that it could be dangerous to flaunt wealth. The recent trend references the WASP American lifestyle, which is not going anywhere — it will continue to be relevant in the circles where it can be afforded. The brands referenced above cater to those circles, and/or have a defined brand identity rooted in minimalism. Calvin Klein, for instance, has maintained a minimalist aesthetic for decades, and will continue to do so regardless of what’s trending at any given moment.
But in the mainstream, minimalism typically has a hard time gaining momentum because it does not translate for the mass market. The 'trickle down' or 'trickle up' timeline of a trend is what extends its lifespan and impact. This means that the longest-lasting fashion trends are adaptable for both mass and luxury markets (these are often colors or patterns). True minimalism doesn't usually work well when executed at a lower price point — it tends to just look bad, and gets boring quickly. In comparison, maximalism still has a lot of potential to look great, and offers more variety. When minimalism is vogue, it’s irritating for mass brands and retailers (i.e. H&M), because it makes it difficult for them to sell more clothes. And these billion dollar companies are quite influential in the market. While “quiet luxury” will always exist as a luxury lifestyle, any knowledgable fashion trend forecaster should have been easily able to predict its short lifespan as a mainstream trend (this is the sort of perspective that data doesn’t usually provide… 🫠).
And so, fashion is now firmly repositioned within our maximalist era.
Classic Boom Boom
In Regressive Nostalgia, I shared how this cultural macrotrend was influencing a resurgence of 50s and 80s era aesthetics, from the retro bob, tradwife fashion, tenniscore, and country club vibes, to office sirens, corpcore, and Republican hair. I noted that I think we’ll see a continued fusion of these two eras, and this is how I see it coming to life across the seasonal fashion timeline.
For Spring/Summer, we can think about how classic 50s prep elements were remixed during the 80s with pop color. While definitely at odds with quiet luxury, it’s still chasing ‘old money’ aspirations. Because this is an outdoor-focused season, elements of the Natural Virtue macrotrend are also at play here. Will this summer see the return of Nantucket Reds?3 I’m not so familiar with menswear but [unfortunately] feel like it would fit here…
Fall/Winter will be prime season for the 80s Boom Boom aesthetic (originally coined by
) and a return to opulence: strong silhouettes, lush fabrications like leather and fur, and deeply hued colors or high-contrast prints. While corpcore will be relevant in the spring, I personally feel it’s more attuned to fall sensibilities in terms of reaching its peak. The apparel details may not feel conventionally ‘maximalist,’ but the attitude is, and it shows up most in bold accessories.
Boho Romanticism
Boom Boom is not the only aesthetic trend on the horizon — people who don’t vibe with the structured elements of the looks above may instead resonate with the revival of boho style. As opposed to the 50s/80s mashup influenced by Regressive Nostalgia, this alternate trend takes on 70s/00s references (think hippie/hipster) and is influenced primarily by Offline Escape. The cultural sentiment is consistent with those eras too: progressive anti-war politics and a romantic longing for [offline] escapism through nature and travel. Aesthetically, the backlash against AI aesthetics results in a reverence for handmade qualities, human imperfection, and tactility — which are all elements that align with bohemian sensibilities.
I first predicted the rise of boho in December 2022 when I presented my forecast for Spring/Summer 2024 at Nordstrom; and I doubled down in June 2023 when I presented Fall/Winter 2024 trends. Here’s an excerpt from those forecasts that I’ve used for my portfolio (sorry it’s blurry):
I was a bit too early in these predications, although correct in the sense that Chemena Kamali’s debut Chloé collection in March 2024 was widely acclaimed for bringing back boho chic.4
Over the past year, Chloé has ensured boho style remains in discussion, but it doesn’t feel like it’s really reached full form yet. Based on the SS25 and recent FW25 New York shows, it seems like many luxury brands have chosen to continue adhering to more refined aesthetics, evolving from quiet luxury to boom boom and avoiding taking Chloé’s lead.5 But as I mentioned earlier, minimalism is no fun for mass retailers, and boho-inspired maximalism and romanticism is a goldmine. So all logical indicators suggest that we’re still in the early days, and that its true momentum would come from streetstyle rather than the runway. The Olsens might now be best known for their hyper-minimalist aesthetic at The Row, but remember when they were the queens of boho? We have a long way to go before reaching the peak of this trend.
For Spring/Summer, boho’s quintessential lightweight flowy fabrications and multitude of prints are a perfect fit. Natural Virtue will also have an influence on this season, with an emphasis on how these clothes relate to summer travel.
Fall/Winter takes a darker tonality and more decadent fabrications like velvet, brocades, and lots of embellishment. There’s a clear opportunity here for a more rebellious approach as well, leaning into hardware and leather.
Incoming: Punk/Grunge Rebellion
These two major dueling fashion trends, Boho and Boom Boom, are both still rooted in a fairly optimistic point of view, whether that is based in regressive or progressive cultural politics. What has become clear over the past couple of months, however, is that many people are feeling pessimistic. At the end of the Regressive Nostalgia post, I asked: Will people buy into the Boom Boom world, or will they push back? Will there be an emerging countercultural rebellion, like punk in the late 70s/early 80s?
In the comment section,
voiced her hope for “a big move towards creative rebellion and an awakening in art in response to this regression. Much like grunge was a response to the excesses of the 1980s.” I agree with this forecast. I think we’re seeing emerging indications of a more rebellious spirit, drawing from some combination of punk and grunge movements. It’s easy to see how this would manifest in fashion, as mentioned above, with the introduction of edgier elements like moto-inspired leathers and hardware like buckles, studs, grommets, etc. I can see this integrated in juxtaposition to the softer elements of the boho trend, particularly as we enter the latter half of 2025. What’s more of an open question, from me, is whether these styling aesthetics will be mirrored in broader cultural movements — music, art, film, etc. Interested to hear thoughts from anyone more immersed in those spaces!Addendum: I was so determined to get this written & posted that I published it before reading yesterday’s piece. and analyze the Dark Mode Shift, which I’d position as the emerging cultural response to Regressive Nostalgia and Chaos Culture. It captures the pessimistic attitude mentioned above, which currently feels missing in fashion, and provides further evidence for an incoming punk/grunge rebellion. I like how Klein and Lau conclude by framing this shift positively: “while we may be forced into the deep dark unknown, it is only by becoming conscious of our societal ills that we can then work towards something better.”
That said, forewarning this is a long read. If you really hate fashion, maybe skip this one?
Now you have people claiming micro-trends are dead and it’s all about tracking “vibes,” which is just a new word for “cultural shifts.” It has always been about cultural shifts.
I am cringing as I type this.
Being a bit too early may be my Achilles' heel, but it’s also my strength. Timing just depends on the target customer — early adopters may already be into boho, but the Middle America mainstream is not there yet.
I’d theorize that this speaks to the growing disparity between luxury and mass, which is reflective of the growing gap between the ultra-wealthy and everyone else. Luxury brands are sticking with ‘quiet luxury’ because that’s what their customers want to buy. Conventionally, everyone, including luxury consumers, wants to feel that they are fashionable and ‘on trend.’ But now that fast fashion enables quick and cheap replication of trends, luxury consumers’ best option is to differentiate themselves via minimalism.
It would be interesting to see if and how any counter-cultural influence affects the mainstream production/distribution of fashion as well as its visual look. It’s hard to know for sure since most people in the Global North seem to be inclined to value convenience over all else, but there has always been a subculture for making one’s own clothes and revivals of personal or communal clothes-making would be an interesting potential highlight as we become increasingly affected by the wastefulness of “fast fashion” systems.
I have been saying that punk rock is coming!! Both the Boom Boom aesthetic and Boho are rooted in rebellion. I think boho will go in two directions—romantic and rockstar.